May 12, 2005; Page D5
A sockeye salmon swimming upstream
Salmon fishing season is opening in the Pacific, from the coast of California up to Alaska. But don't think simply eating wild salmon qualifies you as a connoisseur anymore. People in salmon country have long savored the subtle differences between an Alaskan Copper River sockeye and a Columbia River chinook. Now even smoked salmon sold at Costco is labeled according to species. The fish vary in color -- sockeye is the reddest -- fat content and texture. Below is a list of a few companies that market salmon by species and region -- and even the river in which they last swam.
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COMPANY: Wild Pacific Salmon
TYPES: Coho, sockeye, Chinook, Copper River sockeye, Copper River king; steaks, fillets and smoked versions are available
WHERE TO BUY: Wildpacificsalmon.com (503-435-8003),